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Diamond shapes
The shape of a diamond sets the whole character of a ring — classic or contemporary, soft or architectural. Compare all ten shapes we work with, how each one sparkles and wears, and the settings that suit them best.
Shape vs cut
People often use “shape” and “cut” to mean the same thing, but they’re different. Shape is the diamond’s outline — round, oval, pear. Cut describes how well its facets are proportioned and finished, which decides how much it sparkles. A beautiful ring needs both: a shape you love, cut well.
Shapes also differ in their faceting. Brilliant cuts (round, oval, pear, marquise, princess, heart, cushion, radiant) are designed for maximum sparkle. Step cuts (emerald and Asscher) have long, parallel facets for a calmer, mirror-like glow.
The classic brilliant, cut for maximum light return and the most sparkle of any shape.
An elongated brilliant that looks larger than a round of the same weight and lengthens the finger.
A square or slightly rectangular shape with soft, rounded corners and a romantic, vintage feel.
A rectangular step cut with long, open facets that create a calm “hall of mirrors” effect.
A teardrop that combines the round and the marquise — elegant and finger-lengthening.
A long, boat-shaped brilliant with pointed ends — the largest-looking shape for its carat weight.
A square brilliant with sharp corners and lively, crisp sparkle.
A brilliant-cut heart — the most romantic shape.
A square step cut with cropped corners, known for its hypnotic “windmill” pattern.
A rectangular or square shape with trimmed corners and brilliant faceting — step-cut outline, brilliant sparkle.
Ratios are popular ranges, not rules — the right proportions are the ones you love the look of.
At a glance
| Shape | Sparkle | Looks larger for its weight | Shows inclusions | Everyday durability |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Round | Highest | Standard | Hides well | Very good |
| Oval | High | Yes | Hides well | Very good |
| Cushion | High | Slightly smaller | Hides well | Very good |
| Emerald | Calm, mirror-like | Yes | Shows more | Good (protect corners) |
| Pear | High | Yes | Hides well | Good (protect point) |
| Marquise | High | Most | Hides well | Good (protect points) |
| Princess | High | Standard | Hides well | Good (protect corners) |
| Heart | High | Standard | Hides well | Good (protect point) |
| Asscher | Calm, mirror-like | Slightly smaller | Shows more | Very good |
| Radiant | High | Slightly larger | Hides very well | Very good |
Choosing
The best test is trying them on. Shapes that look similar on screen can feel completely different on your hand.
Settings
| Shape | Works beautifully in |
|---|---|
| Round | Solitaire, halo, three stone, hidden halo |
| Oval | Solitaire, hidden halo, three stone with pear side stones |
| Cushion | Halo, vintage-style and solitaire settings |
| Emerald | Solitaire, three stone with tapered baguettes |
| Pear | Solitaire with a V-claw, halo, toi et moi |
| Marquise | Solitaire, east-west settings, vintage designs |
| Princess | Solitaire with corner claws, channel-set bands |
| Heart | Solitaire, halo |
| Asscher | Solitaire, Art Deco and halo settings |
| Radiant | Solitaire, three stone, hidden halo |
Collection
Questions
Round is the classic choice, and oval has become one of the most popular in recent years.
Elongated shapes such as marquise, oval and pear look largest for their carat weight because more of their surface faces upwards.
A well-cut round brilliant returns the most light. Oval, cushion and radiant are also very lively.
A darker band across the centre of some elongated brilliant shapes like oval, pear and marquise. A small bow-tie is normal; a strong one dulls the stone, so we help you choose carefully.
Shapes other than round usually cost less per carat, because less of the rough diamond is lost in cutting.
Shapes without sharp points — round, oval, cushion and radiant — are the most hard-wearing.
Continue reading
Shapes look very different in person. Visit our Hatton Garden showroom to compare them side by side, with no pressure to decide on the day.
