For everyday wear
Platinum’s density makes it a reassuring choice if you work with your hands or never take your ring off.
Metals guide
Engagement Ring Metals Guide
Platinum or gold? White, yellow or rose? The metal you choose shapes the colour, feel and long-term care of your ring. Here is everything you need to compare them clearly.
Metal
The part of the ring you’ll see every day
The diamond may catch the eye, but the metal frames it, holds it securely and sits against your skin every day. Each metal has its own character — in colour, weight, durability and upkeep — and every Primo ring is hallmarked by the London Assay Office.
Choose your metal
Platinum
Naturally white, dense and very hard-wearing — a classic choice for a ring worn every day.
Shop platinum ringsWhite gold
18ct gold alloyed with white metals and usually rhodium-plated for a bright white finish.
Shop white gold ringsYellow gold
A warm, traditional colour that suits many skin tones and diamond colours.
Shop yellow gold ringsRose gold
A soft blush tone created by adding copper — distinctive without being ornate.
Shop rose gold rings
Side by side
Platinum and gold compared
| Platinum | 18ct white gold | 18ct yellow gold | 18ct rose gold | |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Colour | Naturally white | White (rhodium-plated) | Warm yellow | Soft pink |
| Purity | 95% platinum | 75% gold | 75% gold | 75% gold |
| UK hallmark | 950 | 750 | 750 | 750 |
| Weight | Heavier, more substantial | Lighter | Lighter | Lighter |
| Wear over time | Develops a soft patina; metal moves rather than wearing away | Plating gradually wears, revealing a warmer tone | Keeps its colour; can be polished | Keeps its colour; can be polished |
| Upkeep | Occasional polish | Re-plating from time to time | Occasional polish | Occasional polish |
| Price | Highest | Lower than platinum | Lower than platinum | Lower than platinum |
Platinum
Naturally white and built to last
Platinum is one of the densest precious metals, which gives a platinum ring its reassuring weight. It is naturally white, so it never needs plating, and it is a popular choice for people with sensitive skin.
Over time platinum develops a soft, satin-like patina. When it is scratched, the metal is moved rather than lost, which is why it is so valued for holding diamonds securely. A quick polish brings back the original shine.
- Naturally white — no plating needed
- Dense and secure for holding diamonds
- Usually a good choice for sensitive skin
White gold
A bright white finish at a lower price
White gold is 18ct gold — 75% pure gold — mixed with white metals. It is usually finished with a thin layer of rhodium, which gives it a crisp, bright white look.
With daily wear the rhodium gradually softens, and a slightly warmer tone may show through. Re-plating restores the bright finish, typically every year or two depending on wear. [CLIENT TO CONFIRM: do you offer rhodium re-plating, and is it free/included in aftercare?]
Yellow and rose gold
Warmth and character
Yellow gold has been used for rings for centuries. Its warmth flatters many skin tones and can make diamonds with a slightly warmer colour grade look beautifully at home.
Rose gold gets its gentle pink tone from a higher proportion of copper in the alloy. It has a romantic, vintage feel and pairs especially well with round and oval diamonds. Both keep their colour throughout their life and only need an occasional polish.
TipMany couples choose a yellow or rose gold band with a platinum or white gold setting for the diamond, so the stone looks as white as possible.
Carats explained
What 9ct, 14ct and 18ct mean
Carat (ct) for gold describes purity, not weight. The higher the number, the more pure gold the metal contains.
| Gold | Pure gold content | UK hallmark | Good to know |
|---|---|---|---|
| 9ct | 37.5% | 375 | Most affordable; paler colour |
| 14ct | 58.5% | 585 | A balance of colour and durability |
| 18ct | 75% | 750 | Rich colour and the most popular choice for engagement rings |
| 22ct | 91.6% | 916 | Very rich colour but too soft for most engagement rings |
[CLIENT TO CONFIRM: “Primo rings are made in platinum and 18ct gold.” — adjust if you also offer 9ct/14ct or palladium.]
Choosing
Which metal is right for you?
For sensitive skin
Platinum is usually the safest option. Some white gold alloys contain nickel, so let us know about any allergies.
For low maintenance
Platinum, yellow gold and rose gold don’t need plating. White gold needs occasional re-plating to stay bright.
For the whitest diamond look
Platinum or white gold claws make a colourless diamond look its brightest.
For a warmer look
Yellow and rose gold suit vintage styles and warmer diamond colours.
For your budget
18ct gold usually costs less than platinum for the same design.
Planning ahead
Matching your wedding band
Engagement and wedding rings rub against each other every day. If they are made from different metals, the harder one can slowly wear the softer one, so most couples choose the same metal for both.
If you love a mix of colours, it can still work — talk to us about the best combination for the way you’ll wear them.
Hallmarking
What a UK hallmark tells you
In the UK, precious metal jewellery above a certain weight must be independently tested and hallmarked by an assay office before it can be described as gold, platinum, silver or palladium. Every Primo ring is hallmarked by the London Assay Office. A hallmark is your independent guarantee of what the metal is.
- Sponsor’s markidentifies the maker or company responsible for the piece
- Fineness markthe metal and its purity, such as 750 for 18ct gold or 950 for platinum
- Assay office markwhere it was tested; the London Assay Office uses a leopard’s head
- Optional marksa date letter and traditional fineness symbols may also be added
Collection
Engagement rings in every metal
Questions
Frequently asked questions
Is platinum better than white gold?
Neither is simply better. Platinum is naturally white, denser and needs no plating; white gold costs less and has a bright finish but needs re-plating from time to time.
Does white gold turn yellow?
Its rhodium plating gradually wears, which can reveal a slightly warmer tone underneath. Re-plating restores the bright white finish.
Which metal is best for sensitive skin?
Platinum is usually the best choice. Some white gold alloys contain nickel, so tell us about any allergies before your ring is made.
Will platinum scratch?
All metals scratch with wear. Platinum develops a soft patina, and because the metal is moved rather than lost, it can be polished back to a high shine.
Can I mix metals in my engagement and wedding rings?
You can, but rings in different metals can wear each other over time. Most couples choose the same metal for both.
What does 750 mean on my ring?
It’s the fineness mark: 750 parts per thousand pure gold, which is 18ct gold. 950 means 95% platinum.
Continue reading
Related guides
See the metals side by side
Metal colour is easiest to judge in person. Visit our Hatton Garden showroom to try platinum and gold settings on your hand, with no pressure to decide on the day.